Corn Snake Care

General

There have been some attempts to reclassify corn snakes as Pantherophis guttatus, rather than Elaphe guttata. However, this renaming has not yet been accepted by the ICZN (International Commission on Zoological Nomenclature). These snakes are great for beginners because of their non-aggressive temperament and ease of care, but they are also popular among experienced hobbyists. The large numbers of color morphs and patterns available make corn snakes exciting for keepers of all experience levels. Corn snakes rarely strike out at their owners, but, as with all animals, there are some specimens that go against the “norm.” Although corn snakes do not readily strike out, they may do so if grabbed suddenly from above by the handler or if the handler’s hand smells of prey items. The handler should wash his/her hands before and after handling. This helps the snake not confuse a hand with food and prevents the spread of mites, endoparasites, and diseases.

Housing

Corn snakes can be housed in extremely simple enclosures. The first thing to decide upon is the enclosure itself. A myriad of options are available. Many breeders and hobbyists with large numbers of snakes house them in plastic totes/boxes with holes drilled along the sides for ventilation. If a plastic tote is used, it is important to ensure that there is adequate ventilation to prevent the buildup of stagnant air and that the holes are not large enough for the snake to escape. People with many snakes often have specialty reptile racks that the plastic boxes slide into. The boxes do not require lids in this sort of setup because the shelves above the boxes serve as the lids. In order for these racks to work, it is vital that the boxes fit snuggly against the shelf above to prevent a snake from crawling through an opening left between the box and the shelf. Over time, the shelves of reptile racks may begin to sag. One way to attempt to prevent this is to make sure all the shelves contain boxes to support the shelves above. Plastic boxes can also be used without a rack, but they will need secure-fitting lids. The boxes can then be stacked on top of each other. Although this method is less expensive than purchasing a rack, it is also less convenient because the keeper has to shuffle boxes to get to the snake he/she wishes to feed, observe, etc. Also, it is very easy to add heat tape to a rack system. When using any sort of heating element, a thermostat is a must.

While plastic boxes are inexpensive and an efficient use of space, for those hobbyists that just have a few snakes and would like to be able to easily view them, aquariums might be a better option. Most pet stores sell terrariums designed for snakes, but these are often overpriced and of a poorer quality than aquariums, since these snake terrariums are not designed to be filled with water. However, one advantage of snake terrarium kits is they usually have secure, sliding, screen lids. If an aquarium is used, a secure lid will either have to be made or purchased. Although screen lids are easy to find, many are loose fitting and may not be secure enough. Screen clips can help secure a loose lid.

After an enclosure has been selected, bedding or substrate needs to be provided. As with cage choices, there are also multiple substrate choices, such as newspaper, reptile carpet, aspen shavings, etc. Whatever bedding is chosen, it should not be harmful to the snake. Woods with large amounts of resin, such as cedar and pine, should not be used.

In addition to its bedding, a corn snake should also be provided with a water dish and at least one hide. Providing a hide at both the warm and cool end of the enclosure is even better. The water dish should be large enough for the snake to completely crawl into, and the water should be changed a minimum of once a week. The water should be changed more often if it appears to be dirty or if the snake defecates in it.

Heating

For heating, a heating pad or heat tape works well. The heating element should only heat part of the enclosure, allowing the snake to choose its desired temperature. The warm end of the enclosure should be around 80-85°F (27-29.5°C), with the cooler ending staying around 70-74°F (21-23°C). This temperature gradient can also be achieved with a heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter, but these must be positioned to prevent the snake from burning itself. Although readily available, it is best to avoid heat rocks. A thermostat should be used regardless of the heating element being used.

Feeding

Corn snakes are usually good eaters, but some specimens can be picky. In general, the hardest times to get corn snakes to eat are the first few feedings after birth. After a baby begins eating, it is usually not difficult to feed. A newborn corn snake can be fed a very small pinky or part of a pinky, if it refuses to eat a whole one. If a newborn snake refuses pinkies altogether, it may prove beneficial to rub the pinky with the scent of other prey, such as a lizard. Once a baby has started feeding, it should be fed about two pinkies a week, except for when it is preparing to shed its skin. Adults can be fed about one large mouse every 5-12 days. It is best to feed corn snakes pre-killed prey. Not only are frozen rodents more convenient because they can be pulled out and defrosted at any time, they also pose no threat to the snakes. Live rodents will sometimes bite or gnaw on snakes.